Disney® Official Baby Yoda Backpack Mandalorian Grogu The Child | Large Star Wars Backpack - Suitable for Older Kids, Teenagers & Adults 48cm x 35cm x 13cm

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Disney® Official Baby Yoda Backpack Mandalorian Grogu The Child | Large Star Wars Backpack - Suitable for Older Kids, Teenagers & Adults 48cm x 35cm x 13cm

Disney® Official Baby Yoda Backpack Mandalorian Grogu The Child | Large Star Wars Backpack - Suitable for Older Kids, Teenagers & Adults 48cm x 35cm x 13cm

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On the designated bottom of each shoulder strap, add the D-ring straps into the middle so they sit against the right-side of the fabric. Align the middle of the D-ring strap with the seam you just sewed (which should now be placed in the center of the shoulder strap). Make it so the D-rings sit INSIDE the "housing" and the end of the D-ring straps sit flush with the to-be-sewn short side. Repeat for both pieces. Cut a side panel that is the height of both sides (each of my sides were 6" tall), plus the length of the bottom. This will match the width of the bag plus 1/2" seam allowances around all sides. Set the tension to a weaker setting to avoid making tons of holes and, therefore, weakening the fabric. NOTE: I didn't line mine, but if you were hoping to line yours, line it BEFORE you sew it down to the bag.

In the first two pictures of this step, the first picture is "against the nap." You will see the fibers are raised up and rougher looking. The second picture is "with the nap." You will see that the fibers look smoother. If you cut "against the nap," the effect will be a richer, darker look. If you cut "with the nap," the effect will be a softer, lighter look. Sew the top piece of fabric (dark brown) to the tan gusset fabric (right sides together). Then open the seam and topstitch it down as you did before. To start that process, we need to add a gusset (aka: the fabric that extends from the zipper on either side). Take your 12" zipper and sew it right sides together with the first piece of fabric. Your seam allowance should be 1/4". MAKE SURE THE FABRIC IS CENTERED ON THE ZIPPER SIDE (the zipper will hang out both ends of the fabric). Next, match up the side seams (where the green and brown fabrics collide on both the front of the bag and the side panel) Buy a zipper slide (as seen in picture 1). Usually they will be called a "Fix-A-Zipper" in places like Walmart.

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From the inside of the ear, push the needle up through a current hole (made by the machine) in the light green fabric. tall x 10-1/2" wide (with curved edges matching the sides of the green top piece, or trim it to the shape after sewing the seams) dark brown piece, set aside

Fold the fabric lengthwise, and sew with 1/2" seam allowance along the raw edges (keeping the RIGHT sides together). Do this for both pieces. This will make a "housing" for the pads to slip into (therefore, avoiding any extra seams on the long side, except the one). DO NOT sew the two short ends of either piece. Also, KEEP THE FABRIC WRONG-SIDE OUT. NOTE: The ear shape is organic, so use my photos here to guide you, or design your own shape from an inspiration photo of your own. To prepare the front of the bag for sewing, fold the ears in and hold them together with a binder clip. BEFORE YOU COMPLETE THIS STEP: Make sure you open the zipper up all the way. If you don't, you won't be able to open or flip your bag right-side out later! About: Where there's a will, there's a way! Never give up, never give in...BE the good you want to see in the world. :)I got washable, sew-in interfacing for this project. It added the strength and stability I needed, but was easy to sew and maneuver. Now, because you used a 12" zipper, you shouldn't encounter the problem I did for using a 9" zipper. You should be able to simply snip off the zipper ends, throw on a couple of tan side pieces, and call it a day. Have no idea what any of that means? Neither did I, as this was my first time embroidering! So, here are some links to what I used to learn the different stitches -- don't worry, they're super easy! ALWAYS TEST YOUR MACHINE SETTINGS ON SCRAP FABRIC BEFORE SEWING ONTO THE ACTUAL BAG. Do this every time you change up the fabrics or add in another layer.

Ultimately, this is up to you. However, to get the shaded look of real suede, you should cut on the cross grain of the fabric.

This part is actually much easier than everything you just did. And now that you've sewn the bag together, this should be a much simpler duplication of that process. Also, you will only make the lining go up HALFWAY up the sides, as the zipper panel's raw edges won't be noticeable once the bag is turned right-side out. However, you can make a lining that covers up the zipper panel's raw edges, too, if you want (if you choose this approach, you would sew up to the zipper instead of just half way). Working in the same zigzag style (but making the stitch longer to grip both fabrics properly), sew in and out all the way up the ear.

You can feel the nap of a fabric by running your hand on the surface of the cloth. If the fibers stand up when you run your hand in one direction, that's "against the nap." If they lay down smooth, that's "with the nap." If you experience a problem such as this: after sewing all the parts together and flipping it open, the one side of the inner ear piece pulled away from the Yoda-green ear fabric...follow these instructions to fix it (this will save you from seam ripping it all open!) Everyone says that (to admire your hard work), but it's so true! Take time to admire your hard work!

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NOTE: Your finished piece will be different from mine. I got too small of a zipper, but it was all I could find since this pandemic has limited what's in stores. So, if you can get ahold of a 12" zipper, you will be good to go (and will avoid the problem I ran into later)!

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